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What is the most expensive part of making a tee shirt?

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Why do T-shirt prices vary so much—even for styles that look similar? The real answer lies in the hidden costs at every step of production. Understanding where the biggest expenses come from helps both new brands and seasoned buyers make smarter sourcing decisions and avoid costly surprises.

The most expensive part of making a T-shirt is usually the fabric—especially high-GSM, organic, or specialty materials1—followed by printing/customization2, labor, and finishing. Sampling, design, and order size also have a major impact on final cost per unit.

As a manufacturer, I often walk clients through these numbers. Let’s break down what really drives T-shirt production costs—and what you can do to optimize your budget.

Major Cost Components in T-Shirt Manufacturing

Every T-shirt’s price tag includes several main expenses: fabric, labor, printing, design, and finishing. But the biggest slice of your budget almost always goes to materials—especially for premium, high-GSM, or organic fabrics.

Fabric is typically the largest single expense in T-shirt production, particularly when using high-quality, high-GSM, or eco-friendly materials. Labor and sewing costs also impact pricing, with significant differences by country, wage levels, and order volume.

Stacks of light blue T-shirts with blank price cards Shelf-Ready Tees

Is fabric the biggest expense, especially for high-GSM or organic materials?

Yes, fabric accounts for 40–60% of the total cost in most T-shirt manufacturing, and that share goes up with premium, heavy, or certified organic textiles.

  • High-GSM fabric (heavier, denser cloth) costs more per yard and adds weight-based shipping costs.
  • Organic or specialty cotton comes with higher raw material and certification costs.
  • Blended or performance fabrics (modal, bamboo, Tencel) may also drive up costs.
Fabric Type Cost Impact
Standard cotton Baseline
High-GSM cotton +20-40%
Organic cotton +30-50%
Modal/Bamboo/Tencel +20-50%

Do labor and sewing costs3 vary significantly by country or order size?

Absolutely. Labor rates in countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, and China are lower than in the US or Europe. Larger orders drive down per-unit labor costs due to efficiency and scale.

  • Labor cost per shirt is higher in high-wage countries or for complex sewing tasks.
  • Smaller orders mean higher per-unit costs, as setup and changeover time is spread over fewer pieces.
Factor Labor Cost Impact
Country 2x–10x variation
Order size (MOQ) Lower MOQ = Higher unit cost

Printing & Customization: A Key Driver of Cost

How you decorate your T-shirts is often the second-biggest expense—sometimes even more than fabric for complex designs.

Printing (screen, DTG, or specialty) and add-ons like embroidery or appliqué can dramatically increase per-unit costs. Each method comes with different setup fees, minimums, and labor intensity.

Does screen printing or DTG significantly affect price per unit?

Yes. Screen printing has high setup costs but is economical at scale; DTG is cost-effective for small runs but more expensive per unit in bulk.

  • Screen Printing: Best for high volumes, limited colors. Setup fee per design/color but low per-unit cost when ordered in bulk.
  • DTG (Direct-to-Garment): No setup, suitable for small orders or full-color prints, but higher per-shirt cost as volume increases.
Printing Method Setup Fee Best For Cost per Unit (small run) Cost per Unit (large run)
Screen Print High Bulk, simple Moderate Low
DTG Low/None Small batch, multi-color High Moderate-High

How do embroidery, appliqué, or heat transfer add to production costs?

Each adds labor, machine time, and often material costs. Embroidery and appliqué are labor-intensive and can double production costs for detailed work. Heat transfer is mid-range, but wear durability may be lower.

  • Embroidery: High setup, slow speed, used for premium branding.
  • Appliqué: Multi-step process, ideal for designer or high-fashion T-shirts.
  • Heat transfer/vinyl: Fast and flexible but may crack or peel over time.
Decoration Cost Impact Durability
Embroidery High Excellent
Appliqué High Good
Heat transfer Medium Moderate

What Role Do Design, Pattern, and Sampling Play in Cost?

The development stage can include hidden costs—especially for custom styles or new brands.

Creating tech packs, first samples, and pattern revisions can be surprisingly costly, particularly for detailed or unique designs. Pre-production costs add up quickly if many changes are required.

Is creating a tech pack or first sample a hidden but major expense?

Yes. Professional tech packs and first samples require technical expertise and time. Many manufacturers charge extra for sampling, especially if the design is complex.

  • Tech pack fees: $50–$200 per style, more for complex garments.
  • Sample making: $30–$100 per sample, often non-refundable.
  • Many brands invest in multiple samples before finalizing production.

Do revisions and re-prototyping inflate pre-production budgets?

Definitely. Each change means new patterns, cuts, and sometimes fabric orders, which increases labor and material costs. Poor communication or unclear specs can multiply revision rounds.

Efficient, detailed planning keeps these costs down. Brands that provide clear, accurate artwork, measurements, and specs save money on sampling and revisions.

Pre-Production Step Typical Cost per Style
Tech Pack $50–$200
Sample $30–$100+
Revisions $20–$50 each

Insights from Top T-Shirt Manufacturers

Manufacturers closely monitor certain cost-sensitive processes and constantly seek ways to improve efficiency and minimize waste.

Material use (cutting efficiency), minimum order quantities (MOQs), and fabric waste are key cost drivers. High MOQs and efficient layouts lower cost per shirt, while excessive fabric waste or low MOQs increase expenses.

What do custom T-shirt manufacturers identify as the most cost-sensitive processes?

Most say material usage and cutting efficiency, labor management, and print setup are the most cost-sensitive. Reducing waste and optimizing every step lowers final unit price.

  • Automated cutting machines, optimized layouts, and bulk purchasing all help keep costs down.
  • Labor and overtime during peak seasons also impact costs.
  • Print setup and color separations are major cost drivers in complex designs.
Process Area Sensitivity to Cost
Fabric cutting Very High
Labor management High
Print setup High (for screen/embroidery)

How do MOQs, cutting efficiency, and fabric waste affect pricing?

Higher MOQs reduce per-shirt costs by spreading setup and overhead across more units. Better cutting efficiency and less fabric waste save significant money.

  • MOQs: Small orders mean higher per-unit costs due to fixed overheads.
  • Cutting Efficiency: Automated and nested cutting layouts minimize waste, especially for expensive fabrics.
  • Fabric Waste: Even 5–10% waste adds up quickly for large orders.
Factor Effect on Price per Shirt
Higher MOQ Lower
High waste Higher
Efficient cutting Lower

Conclusion

The biggest cost in making a T-shirt is usually the fabric, especially with high-end materials. Customization, labor, design, and sampling also impact costs. Understanding each component helps brands control budgets, improve efficiency, and make better sourcing choices for every production run.



  1. Explore this link to understand the significance of high-GSM and organic materials in T-shirt production, which can greatly affect costs and quality. 

  2. Learn about the various printing methods and their cost implications, which are essential for making informed decisions in T-shirt design. 

  3. This resource will provide insights into how labor costs differ by region and order size, crucial for budgeting in T-shirt production. 

What are your Feelings ?

Jerry Lee

Your Personal Fashion Consultant

Hey, I’m the author of this piece. With 26 years inapparel manufacturing, we’ve assisted over 1000 apparel brands across 28 countries in solving theirproduction and new product developmentchallenges. If you have any queries, call us for a freeno-obligation quote or to discuss your tailoredsolution.

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